See Russian Language Original (with Photos) - See Mark's Diary

On July, 2-20 2002a. Altai

Our route:

Moscow - Novosibirsk - Biisk - Aktash - Mashejskaja a valley - the Glacier Masha - Nizhne-Oaaeeineee pass - Mashejskaja a valley - lakes Karakabakskie - lake Karakol - Eshtykolskoe a plateau - r. Oroj - CHibit - Biisk - Moscow

Days Traveling: In road 7. Across Altai 12. Participants: Vitaly Kruglov, Elena Mizonova, Valery Oljunina, Alexey Nikolaev, Svetlana Kopylov, Mark Sugrue

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" Once the God has decided to create on the ground Gold Edge a monastery of the world and happiness. It has called the Deer, the Falcon and the Cedar and has ordered to everyone to search for himself for the best place. Where their ways, there will converge and to be to Gold Edge. By the ground the Deer long skipped. Highly The Falcon rose in the sky. The Cedar deeply originated in the ground. And, at last, there were they in highland where it was good to all three both is free. There also there was a Gold Edge, which name - Altai, that in translation means "gold"

From my personal diary

Second Day

3.07.02 9:36 Moscow Time... What have we conceived? Where we go and what do we want to get from it? I have decided to keep this diary since after a campaign it is usually difficult to recollect everything. I wanted even to take for this purpose a dictophone, and even had borrowed a dictophone from Lera's House, but it appeared broken, and repair it I could not. Therefore I shall write in the old manner with the help of a usual ball pen in a notebook bought in day of departure on Topli Stan metro station. It would be desirable to do records every day but I promise nothing. Our route will pass on CHujskomu to a path, is more exact on Severo-CHujskomu to a ridge, and is designed for 12 days of a way (not including roads from Moscow up to "a point of an output" and back). Have left 2.07.02 at 15:40, Moscow Time, from the Kazan station by train No. 122 Moscow - Ulan-Ude.

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We go not up to the end, but only up to Novosibirsk. A full route from Moscow up to " a point of an output ": Moscow Novosibirsk (the train ? 122 leaves 2.07 at 15:40, arrives 4.07 at 16:21, cost a reserved seat 1044.5 rub.) Novosibirsk Biisk (the train ? 601 leaves 4.07 at 18.32, arrives 5.07 at 05:12, cost a reserved seat 192.8 rub.)

Biisk Gorno-Altaisk (the bus, an estimated cost 50 rub.)

Gorno-Altaisk - a settlement. Aktash (the bus, an estimated cost 250 roubles)

The first day has passed is sated enough. We have risen in 7 mornings. Have washed, have put on, had breakfast. Caa?eee a potato in a train. I was engaged in purchase of meal in a train for group. Bought at the rate of 2 day, in view of purchase of meal at stops. In result it has turned out two packages with meal which should be born in hands. Hours in odinadtsat we with Alenoj have gone to a hostel of the Moscow State University where should meet guys. There we have received a ration on a campaign, and after stacking prophetic all have amicably gone on station. As we did not try to save on things, things nevertheless appeared much enough. Not including a ration which we have received in the Moscow State University, the following allocation has turned out. Alain: Backpack 30e. + 2 pockets on 7 litres. 1. A sleeping bag a blanket 3 layers, a synthetic winterizer 2. Boots 3. Krossovki 4. Jeans 5. Sports trousers 6. Socks h/b 5 pairs 7. Socks sherst. 2 pairs 8. Underwear 9. A jacket warm, a shirt 10. Vodolazka 11. Vetrovka 12. A warm cap, a cap 13. Gloves sherst. 14. KLMN 15. Umyvalnye accessories 16. Penka 17. Sidushka Total 9ea. I: Backpack 60e. 1. Clothes similar 2. KLMN 3. Umyvalnye accessories 4. Penka 5. A sleeping bag - a cocoon 2 layers a synthetic winterizer 6. Sidushka 7. Capes from a rain 4oo. Chinese 8. A small lamp nalobnyj 9. A small lamp 10. Spare a battery 11. The first-aid set 12. Dry spirit A photo. The captain leaves the Moscow State University

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13. Skalolaznoe the equipment: A.Podvjazka bottom B.Karabin 3oo. V.Verevka 10ii. 15i. G.Verevka 6ii. 10 m. D.Verevka 8ii. 2 m. E.Zhjumar ZH.Invar Z.Ledorub 14. The photoequipment A.Kamera Kiev - 19 + Nikkor MF 35-70/3,3-4,5 + UV the filter B.Kamera Praktica-L + Pentacon auto 4/200 MC V.Shtativ Unomat SVA44 G.Vspyshka Chinon S-250 zoom D. 2 wardrobe trunks E.Plenka Kodak ProFoto 100 8oo. ZH.Plenka Fujicolor Superia 200 2oo. Z.Plenka Kodak Professional T400CN 15., etc. Total: 20 kg.

Day the third 4.07.02 8:56 Moscow Time... Hot. I have opened eyes and have finally woken up. I look in a window and I see the big river. On coast cranes and nasypany heaps of coal cost. Irtysh. Soon Omsk. Delay of a train is more than hour. There is a chance to be late for a train to Biisk. From the next shelf at me looks Alain. She has not woken up yet up to the end. Omsk. 9:02 Moscow Time.... By radio mashinist declares Stop. The train strongly lags behind also parking will be reduced. From the bottom shelf I hear from the neighbour - the erudite, that Ob is inflow of Irtysh. Though was considered on the contrary earlier. It speaks, that else Time have counted length of the rivers before merge and was found out, that Ob is shorter than Irtysh and consequently also inflow it is necessary to count Ob. With neighbours to us has carried. With us in a reserved seat compartment the man and the woman go. The man of already advanced years, but its old man you will not name. It from Belarus and some years goes to Novosibirsk to earn additionally the trucker of the refrigerator. It knows much about this road. It also has warned us about border of the East and the West. We practically do not communicate with the woman. The basic sight of our car became that in it practically do not speak in Russian. In it goes more than 20 Poles. They are tourists and it is visible, that tourists not the first year: backpacks Campus, footwear from gorteksa, modern snarjaga. They go to Baikal so, that we is fast with them rasstanemsja. They should go in this train for 2 day more, than to us. Now Russian words are still silently audible, but soon to wake up Poles and then in the car there will be only a Polish speech mixed up with English and French. As to the Polish language it has very much liked me. It contains many sibiliant consonants and from it becomes very soft and pleasant.

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All Poles young. In their group some little girls go. They are sociable and cheerful. All have quickly enough made friends. To them without any problems it is possible to approach and take something in loans. For example, we took from them bread since I have overlooked to buy it in Moscow. All road Poles drink Russian vodka. And still speak, that Russian drink much. Yes, Russian in comparison with Poles - it is simple angels. Imagine such picture: 38a?., closeness such what to breathe a bit too, and they all the day drink vodka and thus practically have not a snack. I hear voices of guys. They are through 2 compartments from us. At Svety yesterday the head probably from heat in the car all the day was ill. And with Mark I already started to communicate on the sly *8)

Backlog from schedule 1 hour of 8 minutes. Yesterday for a supper ate a parsley with fennel. We gave to try greens to Poles and Mark *8)

It appears, that in Poland greens do not eat. Poles have tried and have told, that it is muck. Mark already for a long time lives in Russia and consequently anything bad has not told, as always has told "fine". Played "goat" in the afternoon. Similar, this game to become our marching card play. At the moment of game by us one of Poles has passed. It of very high growth and most sociable of Poles. Talks well in English. It has asked, in what game we play. Have answered, that in "goat". At Svetika was bad (or too good)

mood and she has asked the Pole: " you Want to be a goat? " And the Pole in the answer has asked: " And I that am similar on a goat? " Here Svetka not up to the end has understood a question and has told: " Yes! " . The Pole has terribly taken offence and has left. However, the insult proceeded not long, and in the evening it again with us talked. And last night, when we with Alenoj stood near a toilet and for turn waited to wash and clean a teeth, this Pole runs up to us, keeping for area of genitals, and has asked, whether the toilet is free. We have answered, that are not present. It cheerfully speaks " oh, oh, oh " and escapes in the next car. *8)

In some minutes comes back pleased, looks at us and exclaims: " UF! ". The second morning is played successively by group " IIE"

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11:00 Moscow Time... I since morning did a platform for a support. Structurally she will consist from 3 stekloplastikovyh the plates fastened epoksidnym by glue. Here only, the truth, I glue more than 20 years. More shortly she has broken, as soon as I started to try to establish the chamber on a support. The effect of translation of time is very interesting. While you go in a train, time undertakes Moscow. We have already crossed 2 time zones. Therefore dawns in 2-3 one o'clock in the morning (on Moscow)

. Yesterday have crossed Ural. We with Alenoj stood in tambour and looked in an open window. It is dear passed by any hills and small hills, periodically rose meters on 50 and went down. Heights last minutes 5-10. We even have not thought, that it was URAL. Where here it is possible to go for a drive on mountain skiing and snowboards? Later we have asked our geographers: Lera, Sveta and Leshu. They have explained to us, that mountains high only in northern Ural, and on the average and on southern they very low. It is insulting! I wanted to look at Ural. 11:45 Moscow Time... We go with a speed of 100-110 km/h. It is not difficult for counting up on columns, Which cost along all ways. We go on the Western-Siberian lowland. Behind a window up to the horizon equal, as a table, a field. Small woods, but from for the big sizes of plain occasionally come across, it woods are similar on fine ostrovki trees. Geographers tell, that earlier on a place of this lowland the ocean was. From for tectonic movements of plates, the platform periodically rises and falls. When falls, in it water accumulates and forms the sea or ocean. At rise of a platform, water leaves. In water it is formed and limestone, sand and clay a basis of ground on which waters after leaving grow plants settles. Process of change of a lay of land consists in the following: from mountains on the rivers (and any river sooner or later flows down in the sea)

water carries away particles of a stone and ground in ocean, there these particles settle, and the bottom of ocean gradually rises. Water leaves pool of ocean in other places, and on a place of ocean the land is formed, and process proceeds indefinitely. We go on the Transsiberian highway. Mark reads the book about any Irish leader whom call De Valera. Lera with Lehoj play a chess which have borrowed at Poles, thus Leha sews a wardrobe trunk for a camera. However it does not prevent it To win at Lera. At Leshi with itself Zenith 412 + Pentakor 35-70/3,5-4,5 and Arsat M 80-200/4,5-5,6 On mongolski "be healthy" will be "amaramande". They are Poles, at last have persuaded one Russian passenger to drink with them.:)

And Russian appeared not less interesting, than Poles the doctor working in the north, the pupil in Moscow, and living in Vladivostok. It not bad knows Mongolian.

Day the fourth 5.07.02 12:26 Moscow Time... We already on Altai. We sit in roadside cafe and while I have a minute, bystrenko I shall tell that has taken place for last day. Yesterday we have successfully reached Novosibirsk. Thus delay has made only 50 minutes. We have landed in Novosibirsk and at once have felt tourists, such as those Chinese who run on the Moscow underground and all click successively on soap trays J. By the way about underground in Novosibirsk there is a underground ? it will consist of 2 branches. On one branch of 3 stations, on another hardly it is more. We with Alenoj have gone down in the underground,

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To compare with Moscow. The first, that I can tell was not present to people, not that that people is not enough of them in general is not present. If to take into account, that it privokzalnaja station (such as our Komsomol or Kursk)

it is possible to draw a conclusion, that the underground in Novosibirsk not so popularly. The second, that to me has was evident is that from this station (I do not remember how refers to)

trains leave in the same party and to same stations J, i.e. on walls, as well as at us in the underground, are written the following stations on this branch. And so there on both walls the same indexes hung. By trains we have not risked to go for a drive, since it was not known what distances between stations and as trains frequently go. There was very interesting sensation: since I have strongly got used to the Moscow underground in the underground in Novosibirsk I felt an at home, i.e. I want to tell, that obmannoe feeling I in Moscow spoke me, that, but fine differences such as names of stations, absence of people, etc. on the contrary spoke that it not Moscow. Across Novosibirsk to take a walk has failed, since there was not enough time. Lesha has told, that it on it walks anything interesting there is not present. Have sat down in bijsky a train under the schedule. Stirred in the evening, sang songs, laughed. It was pleasant to Mark as we sing songs, not having neither hearing, nor a voice *8)

and in the answer it is ripe to us a couple in English. At it, by the way, very much even not bad voice. In one o'clock in the morning have arrived to Barnaul and stood there the whole hour. All train slept, well or nearly so all. At least, on pironu except for us with Alenoj anybody did not walk any more.

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To Biisk arrived in time. Alexey at once has gone to learn concerning the bus up to Gorno-Altaisk or up to Aktasha. Naturally, offers from taxi drivers at once have acted. Cost of a minibus up to Gorno-Altaisk 100 roubles from the person. Went on poputke for 100 roubles from the person. And by the bus from Gorno-Altaisk up to Biisk 80?oa. + 20 % for luggage. And at rent of the machine entirely, it is usual in the price cost both there and back enters. The driver has offered us delivery up to Aktasha for 3500?oa. We have estimated, that it dearly and have agreed only up to Gorno-Altaisk. Actually it is really expensive. Even in view of that all of us-oaee have gone by the machine, but for 3200. Cost of the ticket with Aktasha up to Gorno-Altaisk makes 184 roubles + 30 roubles for luggage (from us, to stati, have not taken)

+100 roubles up to Aeenea=314?oa. And by the machine it has turned out on 530. And on time it turns out too most. Unique advantage of the machine is comfort. Though concept of comfort especially individual for everyone. As we went back by the bus see below. Nevertheless having passed kilometers 50 we have understood, that it is necessary to go by the machine, and, having thrown off, the price for all up to 3200 we have gone by the machine up to the end. Driver Sergey the professional climber (as it to us has told)

, earns additionally the driver in the summer. All road tells to us about the machine and about Altai territory. We have passed the local market, where Berries, mushrooms, nuts, etc. are sold. On The market have bought fritters with berries - palchiki you will lick. It is very tasty. Have passed the market on which it is possible to buy the various Altay souvenirs made in basic from the local stone and a river nut. Had dinner in roadside cafe (Sergey has told, that this last cafe on road,

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Further only in Aktashe and CHibite)

. The meal appeared very tasty and very cheap. On road Sergey speaks not stopping, and I have not time to write down behind it. Sergey tells about mountain goats of rounds which have round strong horns, with which help, they move in mountains: running up, round hits horns about a rock and, otpruzhinivaja, jump over different obstacles. To tell the truth, in it hardly to be trusted. I have tried on the Internet To find about it the information but while has found nothing. But I have found the following: Mountain goat (Aegocerospallasii)

-, caucasus. A forge. A goat, ogromn. Flat in front of a horn with a number poperechn. valikoobrazn. Swellings. And still it tells that earlier on Altai there were many Snow Leopards. Hunting for their fur was business dangerous. For a skin of a snow leopard Gave 7000 $ or 15 years *8)

We pass mountain Babyrgan. It is the first mountain Severo-Chujskogo of a ridge which is met by the traveller going on CHujskomu to a path. About this mountain there is a legend which to us, besides, was told by Sergey. " It happened very much, very much for a long time. The grandfather of Altai and babki White whales had a daughter (grand daughter)

. Called its Katun. Katun has fallen in love with good fellow Bija. And it has grown fond of her. But it was not pleasant to the grandfather. Have solved they then to escape together. The grandfather has sent after behind them Altai the soldiers. But soldiers could not catch up Katun and Bija since when she on them looks they kameneli.

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And then the grandfather Altai has sent the best soldier of the mightiest and big. Called soldier Babyrgan. It has passed most further the others, but could not avoid the same speed up and too has hardened, the latest. And now the mountain Babyrgan, being the very first mountain meets all. " And this legend to us has told Leha on road to Novosibirsk. In it, as well as in the previous legend the main persons Katun and By. " Katun in Bija Has fallen in love. The grandfather Altai that they were together has not wanted and has locked Katun in a high tower. Katun long grieved and cried much. And tears flew down downwards and have formed mountain small river, fast and rough. And By, not having sustained separation, has hit a breast about the ground, and in a place of impact the lake Teletskoe from which the dark and slow river Bija. Flow these two small river to each other and soon merge in one big river and further both flow together. " In translation from Turkic language (the native language of altaians)

the river Ob means "both". Speak, that in 12-oe km. From Biisk there where Katun and Bija form Ob water of Katun and water from Bii flow some distance together in parallel both do not mix up. Also come now before wedding to this place beloved. Last day stay on Altai we with Alenoj tried to get in this place. And even have gone there, but ? whether us not there have sent local, whether we were prevented by a morning fog, whether a legend too old *8)

, but we have not found this place. We go further on narrow mountain road. In some places traces of recent taluses are visible.

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Sergey continues to tell about Altai. One of the most honourable trades on Altai maralovod. Maralovod-very much dear person. At them the customs, the holidays, the life. Maralovody plant deers maralov. When at deers grow horns, maralovody otrezajut them and receive from them the substance named pontakrinom. This substance is a basis of the strong medicine raising a man's potentiality. Local maralovody make under the ancient recipe this medicine and for the big money sell it. Sergey tells, that once saw two men who have used this medicine. They have gone along the street and simply "lipli" to all women successively. We pass by the Altay small village. Quite modern Russian log huts. Here only instead of years kitchens at altaians are used aily. Ail-6-oe grannaja a log hut (similar on jurtu)

. Earlier in ailah lived. Now only use as kitchen. In the middle aila there is an oven, the pipe from which leaves upwards on the middle aila. Ail it is divided (virtually)

into two parts man's and female. And where what part altaians know only. Sergey tells about history of Altai. It speaks, that there are mountain people-phantoms. CHudi. They lived very much for a long time and came from steppe Emondskoj. They were owners of Altai. Their disappearance is somehow connected to white color. One theory somehow adheres a white birch. Roerich's theory speaks, that disappearance of this people is connected with the advent of white people. Jacobs, chudi have refused obedience. Nevertheless chudi have disappeared and they have disappeared in very interesting image were dug in ? CHudi dug the big holes, did a flooring of the ground, supported by wooden racks, came there all tribe and brought down "roof" on itself. On a place of these itself

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Burial places conic holes in which people sometimes fail in due course are formed. There is a hypothesis, that thus CHudi tried to proceed in other, parallel world. And it was possible to them. There are people (climbers, rock-climbers)

which assert, that saw the certain essences similar to people which left rocks and came there back. Though, these visions could be result of mountain illness. And even at excavation on Altai instruments of work which sizes allow to draw conclusions have been found, that growth of owners of these instruments of work is not higher than a hip of the adult person. These instruments belong epoch of a congelation. People sharavarovy refers to. Presence of this people, perhaps, the unique theory of existence of gnomes on the ground. Nevertheless, skeletons of these people it has not been found. But also it yet all. On Altai skeletons of very big people, evropeoidnoj races have been found. Their height reached 3 meters, and color of a leather was red. In this connection there is a hypothesis,

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That Europeans have taken place from Altai. The religion of altaians is similar to the Buddhism. The new religion now develops on the basis of the power beginning. They expect occurrence of " Light Khan " who should release them from something. But from what it should release them knows nobody. We pass kurumy. Kurumy, congestions of blocks, voznikaju-shchie it is usual in mountains as a result of intensive physical vyvetriva-nija. Lie as a raincoat (" the stone seas ")

or strips moving downhill (" the stone rivers ")

. 11:00 Moscow Time... After small technical breakage of our means of transportation (at the machine the right left wheel was heated as a result of a jamming brake kolodki)

, we continue the way on CHujskomu to a path. Up to CHibita remains 100ei. We overcome 2-nd pass. Around of us a rock. It is dear you rublena it is direct in a stone. Walls periodically cast yellow color of a rust is an iron. The machine is thrown by those upwards, downwards. At fast change of height, pawns ears. You feel the passenger of the jet plane. Helping the driver in repairing the machine, I have soiled hands. It was necessary to go down downwards to the river Katun. Descent has borrowed about 10-15 sek., and here rise back has demanded many forces and time. The sandy wall located under a corner 60-700 is serious enough barrier. It was necessary to climb almost on chetverenkah. At least I helped myself hands. Temperature of water no more 100N. Color of water - dairy-green. We go along the river Katun almost all road. And can be so it seems ? On road it is met big kol-in cows and sheeps. The some people walk in themselves, the some people - small herds. But also in that and in the other case we have not met any shepherd and even a dog. CHibit. In local shop fresh bread is bought. At this time altaians approach to us. They are the first altaians who talk to us. All of them (their three)

look old enough and decently got drunk. Altaians are certainly special people, but matom they swear not

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Worse Russian .Oni some time talked to the driver, and then when they have left, the driver has told to us, that they asked it to result for them cartridges from Kalashnikov's automatic device. What for? Altaians ?

Day the fifth 6.07.02 8:00 The first spending the night has passed. Yesterday, Safely having reached up to a point of an output, we have gone lengthways r. CHui. Our problem was to find a good place for spending the night and to reconnoiter a ferry through small river. About this ferry Alexey heard in Moscow, but on a card she is not designated. Backpacks were very heavy + in hands there were packages with meal. We have reached the big prerocky glade where have left things, and three together (I, Lesha and Alain)

have gone on investigation of district. Projdja 2 km., has been solved to come back back, to break camp and to prepare for a supper since time was already about 8 one o'clock in the evening, and it is fast should to darken (in mountains darkens about 10 hours)

. Lesha has gone further up to a place where there should be a ferry, and we have returned back. (Page 14)

Have quickly transferred things, have broken camp and have prepared for a meal. In 2 hours has returned Lesha. All is normal. Most is. We ate soups, grechku with tushenkoj, crackers and tea. The first attendants were I and Alain. To be exact only ?. Here and now, still sleep, and I sit near a fire and I wait, while water will begin to boil. Has begun to boil. It is time to lift people!!! 9:20 For a breakfast the porridge welded on artificial milk, raisin, tea or coffee. I drink coffee with milk and em steering-wheels. Lesha lohonulsja with meal. Yesterday it seemed to me, that tushenka not the first freshness. And porridge oat-flakes in packs, and ovsjanuju has bought not groats in packages, and she appeared with a peel which to not cook. Having prepared for a breakfast, I have got on mountain, Near which we spent the night. I very much liked to swarm up to stone mountain. For this purpose it is not required special preparation and a special equipment, but also you go not on a footpath. Yes climbers for a word "lazat" will forgive me, but expression " to do an ascention " here hardly would be pertinent.

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I visors on height of meters 200-250 (on a vertical from a place of spending the night)

and before me have opened a fine kind: CHujskaja a valley in which bottom flows silver Feeling, hills on each side grow and stone rocks tower, and on horizon snow caps are visible. Ahead I see a top of mountain Kurkurek (3982)

, aside which we shall go. To the right of it there is a glacier Masha, but it for the present it is not visible. 11:30 We in camp. Though Mark with Lera have already left (30-40 minutes ago)

, we were braked with repair Svetinogo of a backpack. Mark has flatly refused to give us with Leshej a part of things. We bear more it, but we can take on 2-3 kg. Obstinate and proud Mark. Weight Backpacks at guys from 25 up to 35 kg., at girls from 15 up to 20. It is a lot of, but there's nothing to be done. While ? Hot. Very hot. We shall go on itself peklu.

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We shall go up to the bridge lengthways CHui on rocky tracks of meters 50-100, then a long meadow, on it there will be zimnik, not designated on a card, further again on mountain tracks before crossing CHui with the river Mazhoj, there a bridge. 13:50 Have reached the bridge. Very hot. In a mouth it is dry. Alexey and Sveta at once have got into water. Though she and cold, but they, probably,Receive huge pleasure. Us have left to guard things. We shall have dinner now: sandwiches with sausage, crackers. Probably, we shall make fire and we shall make hot. We with Alenoj prepare for last time. 14:40 On proprocession of one day of a way (even it is less)

at us the first "fighting" wounds have appeared. In the beginning at Svety straps pressed hands, but it have corrected that Lesha has altered straps above.

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Last night I was seized by a cover kana and obzhog three fingers. And, at last, 20 minutes ago being rinsed at the bridge in small river, Alain has slipped and has scratched a leg about a reef. But all these fine disorders, certainly, will not brake the further promotion of group. Moving on a mountain track lengthways CHui, we have seen a fine picture: the water stream CHui painted dairy serebristo-green color as though has stiffened on a place (here is not present thresholds, and the river Flows slowly and easy)

. There is such impression, that on the river vylili huge kol-in oil paints, and she has stiffened on a surface of the river. Water in CHue very muddy - in 10 see it is visible nothing. Nevertheless we drink her, and to taste she differs nothing from usual water from an artesian chink. The dinner comes to an end, and we continue the way lengthways r. Mazhoj

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(on Mashejskoj to a valley)

before crossing with r. Karakabak (10 km)

. R. (Valley)

Mazhoj and r. (Valley)

Masha is one and too. 17:34 We at last have reached a place where should leave a part of products. All time the road has gone upwards. Difference of height about 400 meters. Backpacks very heavy. Up to lake remained about 3-4 km. Again we shall come late. At rise at girls moral failures have started to occur. First Alain, and then (already after a part of products have hidden)

Sveta were psychologically broke. Loadings really very big. And in general all good fellows to keep up to the end. We come nearer to mountain Kurkurek. Up to Snow tops there are 10-15 km. The cold wind from mountains is felt. In increasing frequency there are mountain streams. Water, as if from bottles pure and tasty. Very strongly get flies. Them here hundreds. But it and is correct: pure mountain Altay air, and here such delicacy six sweaty dirty Moscow tourists *8)

.

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A strong smell polyni ? Have passed a monument to three climbers Baumantsam. Were broke at an ascention into mountain Square. 1990 g ? 21:00

Day has passed very tensely. If so will go further far we shall not leave. It appears, we today have made double norm on a route. Up to the first lake remained 300-500i. Tomorrow it will be necessary to pass 3-4 km. Up to the lake which are taking place at height 1984i. Are on duty Mark with Lera. For a supper macaroni with tushenkoj, supchik, tea or coffee. Today we can have a sleep more since the double norm yesterday has been made. However to sleep it would not be desirable. Can be therefore,

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That good weather, and can be because the small river strongly rustles. Lera with Mark an hour try to prepare for a breakfast *8)

- the fire badly burns something. Leha washes. Alain with Svetoj - main soni, still sleep. Yesterday spending the night was directly at podnozhja mountains Belkenek (2264i.)

on coast serebrjano-green CHui, yet not typed force and the speed current important and easy. And today we spent the night on a glade, is dense zarosshej a cedar and young fur-trees, on coast mountain Mashei-fast, raging, noisy. It is possible to tell, that we today slept with Masha. *8)

Our exact coordinates: 87* 35 ' VD, 50* 11 ' SSH. 15:23 We have left at 12-45 and have passed more 5-oe km. The first lake (there where on a card in Masheju runs Karakabak)

we have not seen, since it Has dried up (probably this seasonal lake)

. But now we with Alenoj sit on coast, well almost on coast, lakes 1984i. We have rounded the first mountain with a snow at top. On road have met 2 groups of tourists. The part from them appeared from Australia. I have tried to communicate to them on anglijski, but, having understood, that to me shines nothing, has left this employment *8)

. Have met a mountain dogrose. At it small oblong berries. They have not grown yet since the dogrose has not faded yet. The majority of trees are covered with the interesting black moss reminding dry human hair (fu, what muck)

. Our geographers speak, that it, whether " vedminy hair ", whether " hair of a witch ". It is not so important. The main thing it that it grows only in a non-polluting zone. We were caught up by guys. We have a rest and at the same time we solve, that we shall eat for a dinner cheese or sausage. I, naturally, for sausage.

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And still we have decided to go further up to the following lake since time still is and it is possible to go forward what to reduce a tomorrow's way (tomorrow there will be a first pass and it is desirable to steal up as it is possible closer at it)

. Lesha shows on small piramidki, combined of stones. These are rounds. Them have on road, there, where a footpath it is not visible, and they are necessary what to not go astray. Before me at height of 50-60 meters a small falls. To it has gone Lesha behind water and to be expiated. We have dinner. In several meters from us on a stone sits small striped zverek-it burunduk. I never saw burunduka in alive. Under us lake. Color of lake same, as at CHui. It a campaign on the extended sausage. Length of lake of 1,5 km. Some time back we have passed " a cone of carrying out ". It is formed in rezul-

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tate taluses of stones from mountains. We see Lehu on the other hand lakes. Ahead the glacier is seen by Masha. Very beautifully. Looks as the bent extended lake sparkling on the sun. In the morning Mark with Lera prepared for a boiled rice ? Here only instead of sugar Mark has thrown there salt. It has told, that so For porridge prepare in Ireland. Muck any. Well than anything there is more to sugar and raisin and porridge becomes sweet *8)

. The small breeze makes the way through clothes and reminds us that we are at height over 2 km., and in 5-10 km. From us glaciers begin. We are dressed for the present as in summer, but tomorrow we shall start to put on more warmly. 8)

? such you will see not every day Mark eats shortcake the table spoon. The matter is that cookies has completely crumbled and has turned to sand. Theoretically, we tomorrow should reach lake Verhne-Shavlinskogo. But it over 15 km ?

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18:50 We have risen on spending the night at the end of lake. We had quickly a bite bread with bacon and have gone up to a glacier. When have gone, saw very beautiful natural phenomenon: the mountain streamlet runs into small river; thus some meters grey water and pure flow in parallel and do not mix up. Directly as in a legend. And rounds really meet very much frequently and on them it is very easy to go. We bypassed lake on stone coast (huge quantity of stones in the size from 10 see up to several meters)

. The footpath is periodically lost in these stones and then, to not go astray, it is necessary to go on rounds. Mark remains in camp, and we go further on a glacier.

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Day of the seventh 8.07.02 8:52 Has passed on a pencil since any handle does not write. Weather (in the worse party)

has cardinally changed. The sky has tightened clouds, it is raining. On mountains a fog. A glacier it not became visible. Have decided to approach to pass as it is possible closer and to wait for improvement of weather. Yesterday we with Alenoj have almost reached a glacier. On it at us hour has left equally. Plus, we have not reached a track on pass distance, on time to equal 20-30 minutes. It in view of that we have gone without things. Means, with backpacks we shall spend from 2 till 3 o'clock. It is wet, slippery stones. At Lena boots slide. At me have started to be torn krossovki. For a breakfast pshen. On horizon there are slices

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The blue sky. There is a chance, that weather will clear up. Yesterday late at night, when has already darkened Lesha with Svetoj and Lera observed shambalu (in per. The mystical country)

. On horizon above a valley between two big mountains from the party, from where we came, the following picture was visible: 3 mountains, below a valley, and in a valley a tree. Personally I did not see it, but I am declined to trust guys. As we a week as from alcoholic drinks did not drink anything. The Shambhala was searched in due time by Roerich and, speak, even has found. And still, shambala takes the second value it really a place where there live lonely monks the eremites knowing about a life much more of usual people. They are very wise and know something such, that to the usual person to know is not given. Someone from travellers, ostensibly, has visited one of such places. But who and where we do not know. Everything, we go to have breakfast ? Eh!!!

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10:39 Pass Nizhne-Shavlinsky (a category 1A, height 3200i)

. It is the elementary, short of transition through the Moss plateau (pass Oroj or Eshtyrkol)

, the pass conducting to lakes Shavlinskim. 13:24 We have left at 11-15. Have reached for 2 hours as I and assumed. Came to a glacier Masha. Up to it 150i. Have decided to reach a footpath conducting to pass, will stop for a dinner, to eat and take a walk up to a glacier. 15:30 Rise have begun at 14-40. Have reached 1-st step. On the other hand (there where we go)

the mountain small river merging water in small lake of turquoise color flows. From it water flows away in a valley. A place really paradise. Last time can be looked at a valley. Further she disappears from a kind. Then we yet did not know, that we can not overcome pass and we shall return back. We did not guess, as after two day which has been lead at height from above 3 Thousand meters in a snow, we shall be glad to see this heavenly spot and to go the tramp on a grass ? Further we should go down almost to lake and go to the left of small river on a track. We should overcome two more such steps. To tell the truth, they it is a little bit less than the first. Further it is visible nothing ?

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16:10 Have overcome one more step. Have left on the equal platform completely covered with stones. Under stones the small river rustles. Very interesting and a little bit frightening sensation when you jump on it kamushkam and you are afraid, as though under you one of stones in deep small river (actually the river naturally not deep, her basically even to name the river difficultly big stream, but sensation such arises)

has not failed. Stones of different colors and times merov. Here there are both quartz and a red stone (iron)

and much others. I cannot name them since I do not understand at all in stones... We go further more to the right of thirds of step on a crevice. By me has run burunduk. Height 2500i. On the previous parking (near mountain lake)

has left the right glove ? It is a pity, good there was a glove. There is such tradition to leave

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A coin there where you want to return. At me has failed to leave a coin, but has left a glove. Not specially certainly, but, nevertheless, we have really returned, and I have found the lost thing. A trifle, and it is pleasant. 16:40 Have left on an equal platform: 10 meter moraine (a glacier covered with a layer of sand and stones so, as ice that is not visible)

, about other mountain ridge (as refers to I do not know)

on the one hand towers, forming thus the sunk platform protected from a wind from different directions. On a platform parking is organized. I see a bedroom, a dining room and kitchen. On stone "table" the white building helmet lays. On a platform in one place the snow lays. I resembled a little on it and to me Kamchatka was recollected. When approached here saw interesting zverka-something like caress or horka. Length 30-40 see. A tail 15-20ni. brightly red painting. This zverek interestingly "chirps". Around tops with a snow ? Are seen 17:24 All is higher, both higher, and higher!!! Have almost gone astray - rounds have helped. Forces on an outcome. Up to the top point hour of a way. ? probably ? Very much it would be desirable to eat. Guys have a rest. I go further. In general it turns out so, that I constantly go ahead, reconnoitering road. When I go, guys have a rest. When I have a rest 19:20 We at height 3100. Around a strong fog. Visibility 100i. It is visible nothing. The group was strongly stretched. Weather worsens. Where it is not known to go further. We shall go downwards on rounds. Up to darkness there were 2 hours.

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Day of the eighth 9.07.02 7:32 We have not reached pass of 800 meters (so has told Lesha)

. Have risen on spending the night directly at height. Have found a place for parking as 3 equal platforms under the tents, located in one line at different height in 2 meters from each other (as 3 stupenek)

. To go further was impossible a rain, wet stones, weariness dangerously ? we have stopped, Alexey has gone forward on investigation. While Lesha went, we have decided to break camp. Have got tent. Mark has left behind water downwards. At 20-20 has returned Lesha. It has told, that in 500 meters from that place where we have risen there is a lake and two places for parking. On one of them there is a pair the girl and the guy. This pair has overtaken us on the eve near lake 1984i. Not looking at that have already started to put tent, have decided to go to lake. Tent have thrust in the big cellophane package. Already all have gathered, but Mark has not returned yet. Lera began to worry. She has wanted to go to search for Mark, but we have not started up her. Minutes through 15 Mark has returned. The pressure grew, began abuse. Mark started to refuse to go, referring that is very dangerous. The rain has amplified. Nevertheless we have moved further. At 21-10 have come on a place to lake. Have put tent. There was a snow. Visibility has worsened. Tent have put on the unique platform which has been cleared away from stones for parking. The platform is not designed for the big tent. Through a platform the stream flows. Tent have put in polumetre from a stream. All have climbed in tent. It is very wet and is cold. On a torch have boiled water. Macaroni to cook did not begin to be spent a lot of gas. Have made tea. Have drunk on 30a. to cognac. Some sausage with crackers had a meal. Sausages there was a little has gorged on nobody. Have decided to eat still sausages (a lunch doze)

. Have dressed everything, that only it is possible and have gone to bed ? All the night long the snow has gone. Tent has strongly brought. She has got wet. I and Lesha (slept on edges)

have strongly got wet. In a waiting room obrazo-

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valas a pool ? Has woken up in seven mornings. Has got out of tent and the beginnings her to dig out. Around all white in comparison with yesterday to learn nothing. As though have got in other world. The snow still goes. It is necessary to go further. We shall wait hours up to 10-can be the snow will end. If is not present we shall go under a snow ?9:54 Weather improves. To tell the truth, on former, it is visible nothing, but the snow does not go any more. Here and there in the sky are seen ostrovki the blue sky. The temperature is higher than zero. The snow strongly blinds eyes. It is very a pity, that I with myself have not taken sunglasses. A snow sticky it is possible to play snowballs. Has put to be heated water. A torch very convenient piece it is not necessary fire wood, but she heats poorly and long. Nevertheless with the help it it is possible to boil water.

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Lesha has gone aside pass to look road. 11:14 Leha still has not returned, and I go after it. I regret that has released its one. Have met almost at the pass. Without backpacks up to it to go hour, one and a half. All is complicated that stones are covered with a snow. The pass represents a saddle covered with a glacier. Alexey speaks, that snows on a knee, and sometimes and on a belt. At 10-21 one of the next mountains was left with an avalanche ? 12:18 There was a snow. Similar, we have gaped good weather. For a breakfast have eaten a double doze of macaroni, but all the same have not gorged on. Probably, the big height, the big physical activities and a bad supper on the eve affects. Have decided to refuel still sausage ?

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21:24 We have left at 13-50. Very long gathering. As soon as have left, the snow has amplified. It is visible nothing. A glacier have reached quickly in an hour. Lesha goes the first tropit. We go in a sheaf: Mark, Alain, Sveta, Lera. I closing. Because of the big weight Lesha fails during a snow on a belt (weight with a backpack from above 100ea)

. We with it me emsja places. Now the first troplju I. Had a rest at a stone ridge. When climbed on these stones, Sveta has slipped and has damaged a hand. Mark as the physician of group, rendered first aid. It is necessary to admit, at it it has turned out quite professionally. Probably rates of nurses which it finished in Ireland, have not passed for nothing 8)

. Snows knee-deep. I help myself ledorubom. Has strongly nestled on edge of a glacier and has failed very deeply one leg. When I all the same have crept out and have tried to see a bottom, at me it has failed. In view of that to the bottom a leg I have not got to check depth of this hole I have not wanted ?

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Weather to spoil. Up to top there are 10-20 meters. A strong wind. Coldly. To get on pass it is possible three roads. The first from the left party on rocks. Hands freeze and do not obey. Probably, without backpacks and little girls here it is possible to pass, but in The given situation we have not risked. The second to the right of a glacier. But for this purpose it is necessary to cross a glacier on its most top that is very dangerous since it just the most critical for a collapse a place. Except for that road from the right party the longest and on a top is not present Platforms for rest. Have gone the third road from a left edge of a glacier, actually on the glacier, to be exact on a snow cover of a glacier. Last five meters represent a vertical snow wall. It is necessary to fix itself with the help ledoruba and by all body to do

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Steps. The sole left krossovka has come unstuck. It is necessary to climb on a snow in woolen noske. Fingers of hands already feel nothing. The right hand without a glove. Except for that I work as the right hand metal ledorubom. About five one o'clock in the afternoon I have got out on pass. At once has felt a strong storm impulse of a wind. The wind blows from party Shavlinskoj of a valley. A platform on pass very small, we were hardly placed on it six together. On the other hand ridge SHavlinskaja the valley is visible as on a palm. But up to it it is necessary to go down on very abrupt party. After small rest and reflections we move further. Have gone in a sheaf, but on the contrary. Again the first goes Mark, I closing. Mark has gone On the left party on rocks. Basically, the picture reminds that we have overcome when rose, only mirror reflected. To Mark

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It was possible to go down meters on 10. To go further is impossible. Mark thinks. These it brakes movement of group. Alain and Lera on the wind. Very coldly. All have got wet. Devchenki panic. To me not on itself. From the right party convenient stony descent a talus. But for this purpose it is necessary to cross 50 meter glacier. Cords for the insurance will not suffice. In group the panic rises. Opinions were divided. I insist on coming back. Mark completely supports me. Sveta and Lera categorically against. Lesha is silent. Time 17-40. To go down very dangerously. And the main thing that will soon start to darken. The constant snow and a wind sweeps up a track which we have left tracks. It complicates a situation. Lera, Sveta and Lesha suggest to cross a glacier. I kolebljus, but sogla- shajus to try. I tie round a cord and I start to move forward. Has passed no more than 10 meters and I fail almost on a breast. To go further refuse impossibility of pass on a glacier it is proved. Firmly I decide to go back. Alexey agrees. Sveta is not present. We come back on old traces. On a place of spending the night have returned for 2,5 hours. The old place is flooded. We go further on " three platforms " on which wanted to spend the night on the eve. Have spent for it of 30 more minutes. At last have come on a place. Almost darkly. We put tent. Lera and Mark are on duty. Everyone change clothes. It is few dry clothes. Tomorrow it is necessary to go in wet. On pass to go more wants nobody. We shall go down downwards. We shall go to lakes Shavlinskim other road.

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Day the ninth 10.07.02 7:23 Have risen in seven mornings. Weather, similar, above us scoff in the sky uniform oblachka. And it while we were going to go back ? Has dressed gym shoes. In them on slippery stones, as on skis. 9:18 For a breakfast cheese (me sausage since I not the fan of cheese)

with we we expect also fruit candy. Alain washes a bowl in a snow with very original way: she has turned a bowl upside down, has drowned during a snow and twists her as if a roulette. All the morning long small avalanches and collapses descend from the next tops. We dry (we try to dry)

things, and we collect backpacks.

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10:08 I have minutes five free time, and I want to tell a little "not" concerning yesterday's storm of pass. First: do not climb on pass which level of complexity exceeds your preparation it dangerously. The pass has been brought by a snow and consequently its level became 2A. We counted on 1A. And then, me it seems, that we in general have missed the mark By pass ? Secondly: do not go in mountains without special clothes and footwear. I krossovki have collapsed. Jeans not so convenient clothes for walks on mountains. Sunglasses, the gloves, special mountain footwear are necessary. Thirdly: basic knowledge of mountaneering, knitting of units, the insurance, movement in a sheaf and Etc. Fourthly: it is not necessary to go in mountains, not knowing well a route, the description of mountain district where be going to go, weather. Go only there, where you know how to go. Go only when it is confident what to go it is possible, and you can return, if something to happen.

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And, at last, v-pjatyh-in no event it is impossible to go in mountains, not having learned ways of communication with with local service of rescue and not having warned her, that the group goes in mountains ? 10:13 Collapses have reached and our party. We saw one of collapses. Up to it was kilometer two, but the sound was enough Loud. 11:21 Again in sight Mashojskaja a valley. We go down slowly enough. Stones are in part covered with a snow that complicates movement. It is necessary to go down up to dry stones and then it will be easier. 13:52 We at last have left on a grass. We go the same road as when have gone upwards. My God, how pleasantly to step a leg on soft travku after three days pryganja from a stone into a stone. Have left hardly above " a stone glade " where we saw parking with a white helmet.

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From all group Mark least is surprised. There is such impression, that it here was at least time ten. For example, we have left to a footpath on which have gone upward, but a little other road. During the first moment nobody has understood, that here we already were, all have thought, that we are somewhere beside, but where not Clearly. I have guessed that on this track we already have gone only when have gone down hardly below to a streamlet (there we typed water when have gone upwards)

and have seen vacation spot on the other hand. I have shared with it with guys. Mark in reply to my application has told, as always is quiet, even is phlegmatic: " I know ? " 8)

15:03 We have come on lake. After mountains and a snow this place seems simply paradise. Describe this place hardly I can, for this purpose it is necessary to be the poet, but I nevertheless shall try. Imagine small mountain lake, meters 20 in diameter, surrounded on the one hand a moraine, and with another - small

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prigorkom, covered with a green Alpine grass. The green grass so grows equally, that there is an impression as if her landed is artificial and postrigali. It is a lot of colors. Multi-coloured ostrovkami they perfectly are in harmony with a green carpet. At once behind this small meadow high almost vertical stone mountain begins, it is dark grey color. Water in lake is formed due to the small small river running into it to the right of mountain. A stream, or, it is possible to tell the river, flows under a corner approximately degrees 40-60 to a vertical, forming thus a number small vodopadikov. Water in the river crystal-clear, and whence lake takes the color absolutely not clearly. With the same speed, water follows from lake from the opposite party (in the right party from mountain)

as as to small small river. The lake is as though a step on a slope of mountains. If to take a detached view lakes along flowing away small river, a sight To lie down on Mashejskuju a valley. Along flowing away small river the stone embankment vysotoju meters ten downwards goes down. On the ridge of this embankment there is a footpath. From the opposite party from mountain along lake there is a footpath on which we have gone upward, and then and have returned back. She as though goes down from this stone embankment (this embankment that first step about which I wrote several days ago)

to lake, and then starts to rise on a meadow aside pass. Around of this place on some distance not so high mountains covering this place from a wind tower. Between tops higher mountains with the tops covered with a snow are seen. Very beautiful place. The picture is finished with the blue sky and the white fluffy clouds slowly floating between tops.

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17:24 Have come on a place where we are stopped for the night. Here tomorrow will be dnevka. We passed this place when have gone aside pass. The small glade, in the middle, which grows a huge cedar. There is a table, benches, a place for a fire and tents. Beside the stream with pure potable water flows. Hardly below the stream runs in Masheju. Guys left things and have settled to sleep directly open-air.

Day the tenth 11.07.02 14:16 The first high-grade dnevka. Everyone are engaged in the affairs: moemsja, we are erased, dried. Z-h day time travel on mountains has had an effect - all have very strongly scorched on the sun. At Leshi very sensitive leather and now it strongly grows bare. Have exposed to the wind persons and have slightly freezed hands. At me the fever has jumped. At Lera yesterday there was a temperature. At Mark cough. Nobody wants to come back to pass, even Sveta which did not want slazit back. That do not speak, and nevertheless everyone prefer to sit in a warm cosy valley, instead of in cold high mountains on stones. Nevertheless there is no ideal place, and even here we cannot feel up to the end Well and cosy, since together with the sun there is a plenty of flies. Till a dinner I was engaged in modernization of a backpack. At great volume of things, the backpack is extended upwards, thus, displacing the centre of gravity above a waist. I have altered the top fastening straps on ten see above. Now, in a case, great volume of a prophetic strap it is possible to fix on the top carbines, and when It is not a lot of things on bottom. As till a dinner I recollected how to use climbing equipment and a little polazil on our big cedar. To engage I there is nothing also want porassuzhdat on a theme of moral attitudes in group in extreme situations. Well, first, it is necessary to tell at once about the captain and its firm word.

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Naturally in group there should be a captain the most competent and skilled tourist, the person who in a rate of all has put, perfectly knowing area of a campaign (for this purpose it is not so necessary to be there)

, the leader. And it is natural, all are obliged it implicitly to obey. Only so it is possible to reach the maximal order in group, absence of a panic and acceptance The unanimous decision (it is possible not correct, but unanimous)

. Nobody speaks, that only the captain can make of the decision, and all others to be silent and to not express. A duty of each member of group to put forward the idea, to prompt, share ideas, and the captain should weigh and choose the correct decision ? The captain should know about behaviour of the person in an extreme situation much more. On it a certain responsibility for members of group since when there comes a non-standard situation lays, the group first of all looks at the captain and listens to its opinion. If the captain on a level of knowledge and experience same as all others it cannot individually at

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nimat decisions. In this case the decision should be accepted in common. Probably acceptance of global decisions should occur a method of usual voting. Thus if the equal quantity of voices turns out, the decision should be accepted aside the minimal risk. I in general adhere to opinion what vainly to risk it is not necessary. If though at one The person there were any doubts concerning success of action it should be cancelled ? In our case the following situation has turned out: when we have climbed up a ridge, almost all have unanimously decided to go further, i.e. to go down. Now, being below in safety it is possible to estimate easy a situation in which we then were: time 17-00, up to darkness Remains hardly more than four hours; the strong gusty wind, a snow, visibility is no more 150 meters, coldly; all have strongly got tired and have frozen; in group three girls that makes 50 % of group. There are three roads on which it is theoretically possible to go down downwards. At the left on stones, in the middle on a glacier, on the right on a talus. Mark has gone the left road, but could not go down even on 10

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Meters from for a strong corner of an inclination and a snow covering stones. It is necessary to take into account, that Mark the most skilled of us "climber". Girls could not pass there. On a glacier was to go dangerously from for a high probability shoda avalanches (the next day has shown, that avalanches very easily descend)

. To pass on the right party, it was necessary to cross a glacier on its top that is besides dangerous. In a word, any of the offered ways was not safe. In a case if the group has consisted only of guys, it would be possible to risk to go down on the right party, but with us girls have gone. Besides nobody knew, that for us could wait below, we could find a place under parking up to dark. I have made for the decision to come back back on the worn track. Mark on the congenital care has supported idea of returning. However Sveta with Lera were rested and did not want to go back in any. Time has gone. The decision was not accepted. On hours already was almost six. From inactivity in group the panic started to grow. This the most terrible and dangerous, especially in mountains. Here during this moment the captain also should enter game, but Alexey was silent. More truly it was not silent, and suggested to go forward, but it is not known in what way. " Can there, can here ? " The most logical, in my opinion, in given Situations there would be a decision-making by the captain on returning. After a while Lesha nevertheless has agreed with us and, the group started descent. One more fact confirming correctness of such decision on worn, so familiar and safe road, we went down before the first parking hardly more than 3 hours. How many we would go down on the other hand a ridge it is not known ? Why such situation has turned out? On pass Nizhne-Shavlinsky Alexey has allocated one day. Thus we should for this day pass about three kilometers up to perevalnoj tracks near a glacier Masha, proceed pass (about 10 km on stones)

and to go down downwards to lake Verhne-Shavlinskomu. Even if we would not reach lakes Shavlinskih, the distance which we should pass would make about 15 km what absolutely not really to pass to unprepared group. Except for it there is one more problem this time of an output from camp. The group constantly begins movement not earlier than 11 hours that limits distance almost twice. As it is a lot of time to be spent for a dinner (about 1,5 hours)

. As a result of all these factors instead of one day we have spent two only for that, That shares up to pass (ridge)

. One more we would spend for descent ? Conclusions do. In group everyone should carry out the role. There is a captain it in a rate of all has put and should make a decision. There should be a navigator it knows about a route most, it reconnoiters road and does respective alterations in a route, it distributes time and forces on road and rest. There should be a supply manager the person responsible for a feed, stocks, things, parking, etc. It keeps account stocks of meal and distributes weight between members of group. With all these questions Lesha has charged itself therefore thoroughly it could not solve any of questions. Small advice: it is not necessary to try to seem the most necessary and skilled person in group, charging with all on the shoulders (in direct and figurative sense)

? it will be much better if experience will be shown in sober and logic decision-making on the organization of a campaign, correct distribution of duties.

Day the eleventh 12.07.02 9:25 Rest has ended. It is time in road. All already for a long time have risen, had breakfast and now

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Collect backpacks. Gathering passes silently and efficiently. Or nobody wants to leave and again in the whole days to stamp legs, or all already know, that it is necessary to do and that expects them ahead and, therefore, approach to gathering more professionally, without superfluous words. Last night solved, where we shall go further. After unsuccessful storm of pass Nizhne-shavlinskogo (or that there was)

, have decided to go on lakes Shavlinskie around on road. But we shall spend 3 days for it (in one party)

and 3 days to return to us with Alenoj. But then we with it are not in time on a train. Therefore on lakes Shavlinskie all of us together shall not go. Guys will go there after we shall leave. And now we shall walk in area Chujskoj of a valley and to look local sights.

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11:45 For 2 hours we have reached prior to the beginning (from party Aktasha)

lakes 1984. 15:05 " O my God ", - Mark when we have got on the middle of a hill on a mountain track under a corner of 45 degrees has squeezed out from itself. I sit on the ground and I translate spirit. Weak, however, we generation ? At last we have curtailed with CHujskoj valleys and now we go on the unknown person to us still to a track to lakes Karakabakskim. Remained to km 5-6. 15:34 We have got on a hill. Here excellent parking is equipped. It is interesting to notice, how the nature has changed. Instead of half-dead stones - the Alpine meadows. The vegetation on meadows same as well as in Moscow, but is a lot of colors, and and, different. 21:54 We have got on height of 2150 m and have risen near the first lake Karakabakskogo.

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Here the nature again has sharply changed. Luga are replaced by stony taluses, lake precisely same as well as in area of a glacier Masha of the turquoise color, formed in padine between running small river and following. From our place it is perfectly visible Kurajsky the Ridge. By the evening the sky has tightened clouds, the strong gale has risen. The rain from time to time drips. All have got into tent. In it it is cosy, silent and bezvetrenno. For a supper ate the soup consisting of soups (which 15 mines cook)

, vermicelli and ? an onions. On the previous parking we have taken an onions which someone has left. On the second - rice with a fish. Rice was cooked by Mark and consequently seasoning (special for rice)

there has been added. Seasoning has painted rice yellow color, but thus has strongly spoiled taste. Having added salts, half of cube magicians and fishes quite tolerable meal has turned out. I have eaten 2 portions as it is ridiculous

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It would be desirable to eat, and Alain rice has refused. On the third - karkade, coffee with milk, tea with milk. Coffee and sugar remained very little. Now coffee is authorized to be drunk once a day. And sugar there are more 2 packs. But at us a lot of superfluous milk, also we shall drink now coffee and when it will end - tea with milk.

Day the twelfth 13.07.02 14:10 Did not want today anything to write down. However circumstances have changed. Today under the initial plan at us should be dnevka. But at such height the wind constantly blows, and weather (the sun - a rain - the sun)

varies. We have decided to go down downwards on that parking which has got to us yesterday, but before it to descend to look district of lake, hills, a glacier and so forth Twice we with Alenoj left to take a walk and twice we with it got under a rain. Second time we have very strongly got wet and now we sit in tent in a sleeping bag. Then we have decided to go down up to the bridge on Mashee; tomorrow without backpacks to rise up to lake Karakol, to have dinner there and back to go down back to the bridge; there to spend the night, then to take away a meal and 15-th to reach crossing the roads going to CHibitu and to lakes Shavlinskim. It will be 15-th. There last time together we spend the night. And with 16-th we run up: I and Alain in CHibit, and guys on SHavlinskie. But these plans to us were spoiled with weather. The rain yet will not end, we shall not go down, since all we shall get wet. 19:20 We have left at 18-15 and in an hour have reached up to Parking. The rain poured all the day long, and we had even to have dinner in tent. Then have played in cards. The rain at 17-30 has ended, and all have quickly started to gather. For 20-30 minutes everyone were ready. If always so quickly gathered, would see much more *8)

We remain here.

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Day the thirteenth 14.07.02 10:50 Have risen at 8:30, have washed and have gone to look vicinities from a plateau. Almost vertical wall in height of 60-80 m is the termination 10-ei-ie plains. On a card the marshland is shown, but we did not check. Height = 2200 m. From here everything is visible, or nearly so all. Mashejskaja the valley comes to an end a glacier Masha and Severo-CHujskim a ridge, height 4177 Masha - Bashi-its highest mountain; Karakabakskaja a valley, Kuralsky the Ridge, CHjuskaja a valley. Belkenek, oz. Karakol where we now shall go. From this place scale of Altai, its huge sizes, its greatness and beauty is felt. Today at us with Alenoj last excursion. Since tomorrow's day we go back, up to CHibita, therefrom up to Biisk and to Moscow. Weather today to not be compared with yesterday's. The sun heats up to impossibility. Sing birds, grasshoppers chirr. In a word - summer. Morning of the next day Yesterday we have returned late, and I have had time to make only a certain plan of the story, what to forget nothing. I write since morning while everyone sleep (I has risen earlier, since the attendant)

. Yesterday one of the most interesting days was, perhaps. But all under the order. We have gone down to the bridge by 13:30 .srazu, not losing time, have hidden backpacks, have taken the photoequipment and a dinner and have gone on lake Karakol. Oz. Karakol to be on plateau Ishtyrkel and in translation from local language means " Black lake ". Here only, why black - it is not clear.

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To lake the road will consist of two parts: 1-st - a steep slope on height of 400-600 m on road, a corner of an inclination reaches 45-50 °. Rise without backpacks has made about 40 minutes; 2-nd part - road on a plateau. At once as soon as you are raised on a plateau (there will be there rounds as any statues)

, it is possible to see lake. It seems, that up to it a hand to submit, but it not so - up to it to go km 2-3. to the left of road in the distance we have seen herd of grazed cows, and behind lake of a structure and a shelter for cattle. We have thought, that it is next zimnik, but have soon made sure, that there there are people and still herd of sheeps. We came to lake (the lake from this party appeared dirty, and coast usypannym the cow manure)

. Probably, the cattle here bathes. We did not have forces somewhere to go, and Therefore have sat down to have dinner directly here on a grass. For a dinner there was a sausage and nuts gretskie, washed down with the water seized from the bridge. After a dinner we have decided to descend in these structures and to try to buy from local population of milk or cheese. Quickly enough we have reached structures and have made sure, that it quite residential buildings: the house, kitchen - ail, a toilet, a shelter For cattle. On a meeting the altaian in a dirty shirt, trousers and boots has left. In general, all altaians look absolutely equally and absolutely dirtly. This altaian - the shepherd. Itself from CHibita, for a summer gets out here and grazes cattle. We managed from it to buy only 1,5 l milk (30?.)

, which that hour have drunk. After 10 days of groats and tushenki - fresh "alive" milk was super.

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From it we have learned, that in 1,5-2 km is farther on road there is one more parking, and there it will be possible to buy something. Having supported with milk, we, joyful, have gone further. Through 25-30 mines we have really left to parking. The herd koz and herd of sheeps was in the distance grazed. They were protected by the horseman. From aila which by the way 6-faced, instead of 8-ie as to us the car driver on which we went from Biisk has told, the altaian has left same J and has asked, that it is necessary. We have told, that we want to buy meal. To us as in previous aile, have offered 1,5 l milk for the same price. During this moment to us that horseman protecting cattle has ridden. Probably, it was, well if not the chapter, temporarily senior though the fellow of years on 20-25 a move looked. It has again asked: " that it is necessary? ". We have answered. It was surprised, whence milk. But then tears from a horse, has gone in ail, about something there has discussed with other altaian (probably, the brother)

, and suddenly

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Has offered us of cottage cheese. We were delighted. The kind altaian has suggested enter in ail. We have agreed and have come. Ail - a 6-faced structure as jurty - kitchens inside of which in the middle there is an oven. Do ail completely of a tree. Logs put "well", forming walls. A roof cover with a bark from the same trees. Pieces of a bark big: about 0,5 h 0,5i h 5ni. Aily old, and here and there roofs are patched by pieces of tin - a civilization. The low door, one window, inside of an earthen floor. In the middle a low metal oven with a pipe leaving in a roof in the middle. On walls 2-3 big shelfs from a tree and two tables with benches. At one - lunch - sit on a bench, on the friend as on shops in Moscow. All utensils (and not too it is a lot of her: some buckets, a basin, raznosherstnye circles and bowls, plastic bottles, etc.)

quite modern. In one of corners something like a washstand. On it there is a washing-up liquid "April". On pech- ke in the big saucepan cottage cheese is heated. From the big saucepan the litre of cottage cheese will turn out. As soon as we have come in ail, the owner has invited us to a table and has placed 6 bowls of different calibre. Started to spill from them to an ear. An ear was delightful. Though in it except for a potato, a fish and kolechkov a green onions more was nothing. An ear it is welded from a fish "harius" which catch in the river (probably, in CHue)

. In lake the fish is not caught. I have asked, whether it is possible to buy from them breads, thinking, that him bring bread (up to CHibita or Aktasha 1,5 days of a way on foot)

and, being is confident, that to us will give up, has been struck with the answer: " Bread will bake through an hour ". It appears, they pekut bread. We have agreed to wait for breads. It has gone to put bread and has asked me to it to help. Together with it I have passed to the house. Conditions inside of a house not strongly the richman, than in aile: two high beds as tables from not strugannyh logs as legs, zastelen multi-coloured blankets

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mi on type as the gipsy put on;, that's all, that I have remembered a table. And it is more there than anything also was not... On a table of 4 forms for bread, same, as well as in bakeries. " Reorganization learns all ", - the owner has answered us, showing on forms. The furnace in a court yard, is driven in the ground. The owner vygreb therefrom a part uglej, has stopped up a pipe strongly with a cloth and has put bread at one o'clock. While bread peksja, we had time to take a walk on vicinities, have met herd of cows and have talked to the owner. It, as well as the previous altaian - the shepherd from CHibita. Almost all herd, except for 20-25 heads, and is 1/5, 1/6 part of all herd - its property. To be exact its families. Still the great-grandfather, speaks it, grazed here herds. The senior sister has left in CHibit and now there is nobody to milk cows, therefore so there is not enough milk. Soon to mow it will be necessary. Graze cows, koz sheeps. Meat on sale. The ram - 1000 r. To us offers meat. Have bought a forward leg of the ram. I have gone to photograph district. Above a plateau the big bird similar to an eagle flies. The owner speaks, that it merkut (probably, a golden eagle)

or telen. All ground usypana minks of susliks. They constantly "chirp". I saw a little and even tried to photograph. The owner has told, that now (with 12 on 15)

there is a local holiday - Eluin. This year it passes in CHemale. There arrange competitions of equestrians. We are in time a holiday, and it would be desirable to look. The brother drives herd of cows. The big cows leave to tend near a house, and teljat exhaust in a shelter. " Wolves! ", - it speaks. Herd adjust impacts of a scourge and throwing in cows sticks and stones. At last bread is ready. It fragrant and hot. To us give 2 loaves from 4. In result for all: 1,5 l milk, cottage cheese, an ear, the mutton leg, bread - we give 230 r. Under the local prices it is a lot of, but we are pleased - there will be a holiday of a stomach in the evening.

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P.S.: parking have reached for 1,5 hours. Long prepared for meat - it has turned out very rigid, but tasty.

Day the fourteenth 15.07.02 10:33 Monday - day heavy. Today we last day together with guys. Tomorrow since morning we leave. And today nachi- naetsja a way back home. We have taken away in zimnike a stock of meal on the following of 12 days for guys, why backpacks have increased and began to weigh on 10 kg more. It is dear will go uphill on plateau Ishtyrkol. Yesterday were on IshtyrkELE, today - on IshtyrkOLE. Further the road will go on a plateau so differences of heights will not be. 17:26 " O, my God! " 8)

In gorku climbed the whole hour. Then about 10 km on a plateau. Heat today the strongest for all time. Flies do not lag behind for a second. On a way have glanced on one Altay parking. There we have bought 3 litres of milk, 0.5 l sour creams, cheese and 0.5 l any local samogonki-ajrake.

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Day the sixteenth 17.07.02 Yesterday wrote nothing, since all over again it is no time, and then when have left in a civilization - especially once. Not less it is necessary to describe those yesterday's and today. Yesterday We with Alenoj have risen at 7:00. Have washed. Alain has washed up a head, I have shaved. At 7:30 have woken Lera - she the attendant. There was all in 8. have quickly collected things, had breakfast. At 9 o'clock have said goodbye, and we have moved forward. To go it was difficult. On the eve the dense farewell supper with binge - ajrake - the uttermost muck, Giving medicines. We moved on a card on road. Ishtyrkolskoe a plateau from stream Oroj, along the river Eshtykol on S-Z up to pass. It was dear on a plateau it is hardly visible. After we have got on pass, the road in general was gone - there was no even a footpath. We have gone down downwards on prickles about km

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Then in a wood have come across on hardly outstanding tropinochku is and there were those the road designated on a card. Letnik has absolutely collapsed and was over - it it is hardly visible. Up to CHui have gone down hours for 4-5. Near crossing stream Oroj with CHuej there is a bridge (downwards from zimnika, designated on a card)

. More precisely the bridge it to name difficultly: some logs, perekinutyh through the rough river with the boards laid on them. Nevertheless to pass it is possible. And this bridge reduces road up to CHibita twice. But there is one problem - the bridge paid. We did not try to pass free-of-charge and did not try to bargain, but as soon as we have started to go down, the boy has there and then run up to us and has demanded money. How many?! Count on the worse - on 50 r. From the person. But actually will cost less. Further we have reached on the rolled road up to CHibita (5ei)

. From party Chibit to me has seemed beautiful and young settlement: light equal roofs of houses, pure streets. But this impression was deceptive. As soon as have gone down, at once it was visible, that for settlement. Besides it is better to not climb on eyes of the local youth, to especially suspiciously sitting companies of young people. In shop (after 10 days of a feed by groats and tushenkoj we Have naturally wanted to buy normal food)

we have not seen a wide range, but on that that there are prices no more, than in Moscow, even it is less. Having had a bite, we have gone in Aktash. To leave it is possible by the bus which goes one-two time to day. It is possible to reach on foot (approximately 7 km)

, but it is better to reach on poputke. To us has very much carried. At an output on a line we were caught up with the machine, Which we have met, when went the bridge. Us have brought up free-of-charge up to Aktasha. Driver Vladimir and its wife - too tourists. But have a rest more tsivilno (the machine, a kayak, etc.)

. After arrival we have there and then learned, where it is possible to spend the night since central hotels Aktasha on work (are on repair)

it is possible to spend the night in hotel of radiorelay shop or in private

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Sector. In cafe to us have advised the woman who hands over the years kitchen equipped under a sleeping room. Call same the aunt of Sveta. Costs 50?. in day for a cot. In a room 3 cots, a table, a samovar. Convenience in the street. It is possible to be washed and wash street water. The room, certainly, not a fountain but to spend the night it is possible without problems. In cafe on the central area we had supper: two portions consisting of a cutlet, mashed potatoes, vegetable salad, juice, bread cost 55 r. After a supper have taken on a mug of the Barnaul light beer. It is tasty, but after have weaned from normal meal of alcoholic drinks, beer went not in kajf. In cafe we have met 3 chehov - two guys and one little girl. To growth of one of them Leha could envy. Guys not bad spoke Russian and very well understood. Nevertheless they long could not understand, that such rozhki and okorochka. We have got into conversation with them. Appeared, that they have passed almost on our route, only is strict on the contrary. Having visited on SHavle, they wanted to reach up to Mashejskoj valleys through pass Nizhneshavlinsky but as well as we have not passed since was a lot of snow. Therefore, they have got on Masheju on Eshtykolskomu a plateau. They had a rest in cafe with 12 up to 18 and when one drunk Russian altaian started from them to get to the bottom from the purpose to drink for internatsional, they, smiling, have tactfully left an institution. Together with them the institution was left also by us. Today We have risen in 6 o'clock in the morning. And cookies coffee had breakfast with oil. In 7 were at a stop. Have there and then got under impact of local taxi drivers. Tariffs the following: 250 r. From the person up to Gorno-Altaisk + 50 r. For a backpack. We have agreed, but the muzhik not nagreb

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Necessary quantity to people. At 7:25 has approached pazik. We zadezli in it. The ticket cost 184 r. From the person. The bus does trip stops, plus of 30 mines in SHabalino (12 one o'clock in the afternoon)

. There we had dinner. To Gorno-Altaisk have arrived to two one o'clock in the afternoon. Further went by the private machine up to Biisk. There is this pleasure 100 r. To go one and a half hour. By the bus the ticket costs 80 r. Plus of 25 % for luggage. In Biisk we were in five one o'clock in the evening. The rain has gone, and we at once have gone to a building of station. The station modern, pure, to people practically is not present, a toilet in the street, a left-luggage office in a building. I rjuzak cost 26?. for calendar day. I had to pay for two day. All is good, if not one "but", the station works from 5-00 till other time in a building of station is it is forbidden. We have certainly agreed, and to us have allowed to remain in a building, but thus have strictly forbidden to move, talk, smoke, etc., etc. In the evening, before an imprisonment at station, we have made walk across Biisk. Have walked on shops and have returned on Station about 9 one o'clock in the evening. Night was awful!!! The personnel bijskogo station has made all maximal, that to passengers at night It was bad. Besides us at station the guy and three women spent the night family with two malenkmmi children. Seats are made in such a manner that on them it would be impossible to sleep. The most resourceful have lain on window sills. Children have pushed under hand-rail of seats and they could accept position is horizontal. All others promuchalis all the night long, and and have not fallen asleep. In half second I have decided to ask the attendant on station to take penki from a left-luggage office, but it is natural at me has failed. She has told: " it is not necessary! ". I did not begin to argue with it. But to spend the night on bijskom station any more I shall not be. By the way anywhere at station it is not written, that it does not work at night. And on a left-luggage office it is written, she works round the clock.

Day the seventeenth 18.07.02 14:35 Moscow Time... We go home in a train ? 998 Biisk-Barnaul in the hook-on car Bijsk-Moscow. Holiday comes to an end, and as it is not a pity, mountains we in the nearest

Time (if only to not count Southern Ural which we shall move)

we shall not see. But before to sum up and to draw conclusions it are necessary to describe the last of the midday which has been lead in Biisk. I, by the way, have overlooked to tell, where there is a house of aunt Svety kindly given to us a place for spending the night. It is necessary to go to a check point of an army part (176 km. Up to Mongolia and in Aktashe there is boundary post FSP)

. Near a check point last (angular)

house worth near road Chujskogo of a path. To ask the aunt to Sveta. Have woken up early (yes we and do not sleep plainly ?)

. Have eaten on a sandwich with sausage, have drunk some coffee. Have gone to examine vicinities of Biisk, to a place where merge Bija and Katun, forming Ob (remember a legend)

. In help on road service station have learned, that it is necessary to go by the bus ? 13 up to a stop "Temple". To go about an hour on razdolbannom the bus on razdolbannoj to road. A fare, as well as everywhere in city, 3 roubles. The bus goes time at 2-3 o'clock. I do not know why: roofing felts we not there have arrived, roofing felts the morning fog, roofing felts a legend very old 8 has prevented)

, to put it briefly, anything such as a place described in a legend, we have not seen. I was struck with one more circumstance: anywhere in Biisk, neither in city, nor in road service station, in railway station we not Have met even mentions about this place (neither round of walks, nor a fixed-route taxi)

. Whether it is strange! Nevertheless ? We have returned to Biisk and have a little taken a walk on it, and here what opinion at me has developed about it. Opinion: And opinion any, as a matter of fact, also has not developed ? 8)

City that syo. Neither city nor village. There are houses stone 9-oe floor, and then, bats, and the deserted rural wooden small houses, then, hop, the wood has gone, and hardly further factory, and behind it again modern stone houses ? Biisk leaves impression of the unfinished city, uninhabited, uncomfortable. In a word, Biisk has not liked me ? But it personally my opinion."